A town by the Sea

A town by the Sea

Chorrillos, its name refers to the streams of water that used to run down the sea wall into the Pacific Ocean. The historic Morro stands as a reminder of battles fought centuries ago and now tells the story of the district that once was the jewel of the Pacific. A different battle is happening in the kitchens of many restaurants in the port-town of Chorrillos, which were once rarely visited by locals, now they host celebrity chefs such as Anthony Bourdain and Gaston Acurio.
The proximity to the source makes Sonia’s Restaurant a favorite among connoisseurs of fresh fish and seafood. A short distance away from this success story is the fish terminal, and Sonia’s husband is one of the brave seamen that passes though it every day.
Approximately twenty-five years ago when I first visited Sonia’s Restaurant, and as a child I discovered the power of fresh seafood. People from every corner of Lima’s society were eating on the same cheap table-tops covered in plastic, rustic wooden chairs and constantly-watered dirt floor, so the dust woudn’t blow up. The classic ceviche, the mussels “a la chalaca” or the specialty of the house, Mushame, were a never ending story.

Incredibly, when the fishing boats arrived bringing more fresh fish and all through the day other fishermen would come by to offer specialties from the sea. The boat parked outside for all the kids to admire and as a reference since Sonia's did not have a visible sign outside. Still located in this familiar neighborhood, this restaurant became a sort of shrine even in times of high crime and poverty.
Chorrillos, once a wealthy neighborhood until the early 1800's when war devastated the city of Lima and it burned to the ground. Its charming people and the views of the coast, also a warmer micro climate and always clear skies, makes for a good stroll through the Malecon and descend to the fish market, and also sample some of their specialty dishes. Another side visit is going to Herradura Beach, either by boat or by car.

There will always be stories to tell about this heroic town and its people, but the memories we preserve will never wash away with the tide.